Volume 4, Number 3

El Pilar
Archaeological
Reserve
for Maya Flora and Fauna

Well hidden beneath the jungle canopy of the Cayo District, the Maya ruins of El Pilar straddle the Belize/Guatemalan border. Encompassing over 25 plazas and approximately 100 acres (38 hectares), it is more than four times the size of nearby sites, indeed, the largest center in the Belize River area. Situated only 12 miles (19 km) northwest of the town of San Ignacio, El Pilar is easily accessible by road through the village of Bullet Tree Falls. Its network of five marked trails makes it easy to spend an entire day exploring the ruins as well as the flora and fauna of the largely undisturbed jungle.
The recent development of this site makes a fine addition to the extensive list of Maya ruins in the area, including Caracol, Cahal Pech, and Xunantunich, making the Cayo District the destination of choice for archaeology buffs.

Visitors walk along jungle trails
amid the ruins.

On the occasion of a recent "Open House" for the project, we took the opportunity, along with other members of the press and tourism industry, to participate in the activities of the day and learn about Belize's newest natural reserve. This event was hosted by the Belize River Archaeological Settlement Survey (BRASS)/El Pilar Program; an international, multidisciplinary project headed by Anabel Ford of the University of California, Santa Barbara, along with Field Director, D. Clark Wernecke.

Clark Wernecke and Anabel Ford
In addition to a guided tour of the site's highlights and a fund raising luncheon, this day marked the inauguration of the new "Be Putke Cultural Center" in Bullet Tree Falls. (Be Putke=Yucatec Mayan for "road to Bullet Tree") The creation of this center exemplifies the efforts of the BRASS/El Pilar Program to involve the present-day inhabitants in the tourism development of this area. Here you can view a scale model of the site, and purchase local handicrafts.

El Pilar is divided into three primary sectors: North (Xaman), South (Nohol), and West (Poniente). The West sector is located in Guatemala. Current excavation and development are focused on the North and South sections, here in Belize, full scale investigation having begun in 1993. With more than a dozen large pyramids, construction occurred between the Middle Preclassic (500 BC) and Terminal Classic (1000 AD) periods. A broad variety of residential structures were discovered during excavations, in addition to elite household compounds and civic/ceremonial structures. Controlled excavations and trenches dug in the past by illegal looters have revealed rooms exhibiting beautiful masonry, corbel vaults and monumental stairways, using a high quality, locally quarried limestone.

Daniel, an archaeologist who worked
on the site, standing under a corbel vault

Preliminary investigation indicates that the area was occupied early and continuously, and could have been a strategic location for the Maya, given that it is located near a small, seasonally navigable river that linked Tikal (in Guatemala) with the Caribbean Sea. The rare abundance of natural water sources in this vicinity is possibly the origin of the name El Pilar ("pila" being Spanish for watering basin). There were large areas of fertile soil scattered about the area, where it is believed that nearby residents grew cash crops, such as cacao, tobacco and cotton. Those living further from the fertile valleys supplemented farming with production of stone tools, pottery and other basic household items.

In keeping with the name of the reserve, El Pilar presents a lively nature adventure to visitors. Preservation of the jungle habitat takes precedence here, and clearing is done only to reveal select examples of architecture. This concept also preserves the archeological knowledge for future generations. Included among the series of trails are two rugged nature walks which offer a very likely encounter with wildlife, due to their proximity to water sources. There are three trails that take you through the primary archaeological centers. Vigilant visitors and staff have reported sightings of Scarlet Macaws, parrots and toucans among the sizable population of birds here, as well as armadillo, sloth, deer, tapir and jaguar--just a sampling of the wildlife that makes its home in the reserve. The abundance of flora includes ornamental, edible and medicinal plants, and others that were used as construction materials. Many plants are labeled with small silver tags to enable you to identify them.

A trench dug by illegal looters at El Pilar

The grand stairway and
tunnel entrance
 Archaeologists and biologists work at the site from February to June and are happy to chat with visitors and display their latest discoveries. Because this day was a promotional event, we were treated to a view of the excavator's tunnel (normally closed to the public) beneath the grand stairway of the Winged Temple in Plaza Copal. It was created as archaeologists cleared away the stones of an ancient stairway that had collapsed, uncovering a perfectly preserved plastered stairway underneath. Attempting to unlock all the secrets of this building's history, they tunneled down over two meters to bedrock and under the stairway, passing through eight major plaza floors, revealing three thousand years of history. The large temple had been remodeled at least five times, and a Middle Preclassic plaza once existed underneath the temple!

This is but a sampling of the multi-faceted experience that El Pilar has to offer. Nature lovers can make a day of it by bringing plenty of water and some food for a picnic on a bench, admiring one of the beautiful vistas of the surrounding area. A half-day visit can be combined with tours of other sites in the nearby area.

See the view...

Layers of time: Inside the excavator's tunnel,
under the Winged Temple

How to get there:

Take the Bullet Tree Road north from San Ignacio. After crossing the Mopan River, follow the El Pilar signs. This all-weather road takes you the last seven miles to the site. Easy to reach by vehicle or horseback, and hiking or cycling is recommended only for the experienced, as the road is steep and hot. (Take lots of water.)

The caretakers live in a green-roofed house by the road near the site. They can give you an over-all trail map, and are happy to show people around. Also, the Cayo Tour Guides Association has received training on the reserve, and any licensed guide can arrange a visit and tour for you.

Editor's Note:

A very well designed, comprehensive Trail Guide, written by Ford and Wernecke, can be downloaded from the El Pilar website at: http://alishaw.sscf.ucsb.edu/~ford/index.html. This site is an exhaustive anthology on the entire program. It not only serves as an indispensable guide to the reserve, with individual maps of each trail, it provides the lay person with an interesting insight to the mysteries of nature and the Maya of El Pilar.

IF YOU GO

El Pilar

The BRASS/El Pilar Program
elpilar@btl.net

Dept. of Archaeology
Commissioner John Morris
Belmopan, Belize
Tel: 501-8-22106
Fax: 501-8-23345

Field Director:
D. Clark Wernecke
1002 Huntridge Dr.
Austin, TX 78758
Tel/Fax: 512-834-3501
102402.2332@compuserve.com

The El Pilar website:
http://alishaw.sscf.ucsb.edu/
~ford/index.html

Tours from San Ignacio:
1/2 day: US$25 p/p and up
(most operators req. 4 pax min, includes guide)
Taxi rate for round trip from San Ignacio: US$37.50, (no time limit, self-guide)



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