| Volume 4, Number 3 |
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El Pilar
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Well hidden beneath the jungle canopy of the Cayo District, the
Maya ruins of El Pilar straddle the Belize/Guatemalan border. Encompassing
over 25 plazas and approximately 100 acres (38 hectares), it is more than
four times the size of nearby sites, indeed, the largest center in the Belize
River area. Situated only 12 miles (19 km) northwest of the town of San
Ignacio, El Pilar is easily accessible by road through the village of Bullet
Tree Falls. Its network of five marked trails makes it easy to spend an
entire day exploring the ruins as well as the flora and fauna of the largely
undisturbed jungle. | |
| The recent development of this site makes a fine addition to the extensive list of Maya ruins in the area, including Caracol, Cahal Pech, and Xunantunich, making the Cayo District the destination of choice for archaeology buffs. | |
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amid the ruins. |
On the occasion of a recent "Open House" for the project, we took the opportunity, along with other members of the press and tourism industry, to participate in the activities of the day and learn about Belize's newest natural reserve. This event was hosted by the Belize River Archaeological Settlement Survey (BRASS)/El Pilar Program; an international, multidisciplinary project headed by Anabel Ford of the University of California, Santa Barbara, along with Field Director, D. Clark Wernecke. ![]()
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In addition to a guided tour of the site's
highlights and a fund raising luncheon, this day marked the inauguration
of the new "Be Putke Cultural Center" in Bullet Tree Falls. (Be
Putke=Yucatec Mayan for "road to Bullet Tree") The creation of
this center exemplifies the efforts of the BRASS/El Pilar Program to involve
the present-day inhabitants in the tourism development of this area. Here
you can view a scale model of the site, and
purchase local handicrafts. | |
| El Pilar is divided into three primary sectors: North (Xaman), South (Nohol), and West (Poniente). The West sector is located in Guatemala. Current excavation and development are focused on the North and South sections, here in Belize, full scale investigation having begun in 1993. With more than a dozen large pyramids, construction occurred between the Middle Preclassic (500 BC) and Terminal Classic (1000 AD) periods. A broad variety of residential structures were discovered during excavations, in addition to elite household compounds and civic/ceremonial structures. Controlled excavations and trenches dug in the past by illegal looters have revealed rooms exhibiting beautiful masonry, corbel vaults and monumental stairways, using a high quality, locally quarried limestone. |
Daniel, an archaeologist who worked
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Preliminary investigation indicates that the area was occupied early and continuously, and could have been a strategic location for the Maya, given that it is located near a small, seasonally navigable river that linked Tikal (in Guatemala) with the Caribbean Sea. The rare abundance of natural water sources in this vicinity is possibly the origin of the name El Pilar ("pila" being Spanish for watering basin). There were large areas of fertile soil scattered about the area, where it is believed that nearby residents grew cash crops, such as cacao, tobacco and cotton. Those living further from the fertile valleys supplemented farming with production of stone tools, pottery and other basic household items.
A trench dug by illegal looters at El Pilar
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tunnel entrance |
Archaeologists and biologists work at the site from February to June and are happy to chat with visitors and display their latest discoveries. Because this day was a promotional event, we were treated to a view of the excavator's tunnel (normally closed to the public) beneath the grand stairway of the Winged Temple in Plaza Copal. It was created as archaeologists cleared away the stones of an ancient stairway that had collapsed, uncovering a perfectly preserved plastered stairway underneath. Attempting to unlock all the secrets of this building's history, they tunneled down over two meters to bedrock and under the stairway, passing through eight major plaza floors, revealing three thousand years of history. The large temple had been remodeled at least five times, and a Middle Preclassic plaza once existed underneath the temple! |
This is but a sampling of the multi-faceted experience that El Pilar has to offer. Nature lovers can make a day of it by bringing plenty of water and some food for a picnic on a bench, admiring one of the beautiful vistas of the surrounding area. A half-day visit can be combined with tours of other sites in the nearby area. ![]()
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under the Winged Temple |
How to get there: Take the Bullet Tree Road north from San Ignacio. After crossing the Mopan River, follow the El Pilar signs. This all-weather road takes you the last seven miles to the site. Easy to reach by vehicle or horseback, and hiking or cycling is recommended only for the experienced, as the road is steep and hot. (Take lots of water.) The caretakers live in a green-roofed house by the road near the site. They can give you an over-all trail map, and are happy to show people around. Also, the Cayo Tour Guides Association has received training on the reserve, and any licensed guide can arrange a visit and tour for you. Editor's Note: A very well designed, comprehensive Trail Guide, written by Ford and Wernecke, can be downloaded from the El Pilar website at: http://alishaw.sscf.ucsb.edu/~ford/index.html. This site is an exhaustive anthology on the entire program. It not only serves as an indispensable guide to the reserve, with individual maps of each trail, it provides the lay person with an interesting insight to the mysteries of nature and the Maya of El Pilar. |
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